Gemista: Greek Rice-Stuffed Tomatoes
Plus a recipe for tzatziki
The moment I stepped off the ferry on Andros at 7:00 in the evening, the first thing I noticed was the light. Autumn light is different. Softer. The sun’s rays strike earth from a lower angle and its as though a honey-hued blanket is draped over the already sleepy island. After August, things here wind down quickly as restaurants and hotels prepare for winter. Many people head to Athens or elsewhere for the colder, less tourist-dense period. Others remain on Andros, busying themselves by catching up with all of the tasks that there is rarely a spare minute for during the chaotic summer months. I’m operating on the opposite schedule, only just returning now after a summer in Canada to help with some retreats at the hotel.
When I’m away from this island, I crave Greek food. Simple things, like humble, classic horiatiki (Greek salad) that is produced en-masse at local tavernas but which doesn’t taste the same anywhere else. Or dolmadakia, tiny rice-filled vine leaves, rolled up tight. But my favourite is Gemista: Rice-Stuffed Tomatoes (and other veg such as zucchini and eggplant). The tomatoes are cored and their sauce pureed, then poured over the raw, rice-filled tomatoes. It simultaneously cooks and flavours the rice as the whole thing roasts in the oven for a couple of hours, converting the tomatoes into a jammy, sweet, vessel. They must be served with tzatziki. It’s heaven. Today I’m sharing recipes for both gemista and tzatziki, as we make them here on Andros. Enjoy x
Gemista: Greek Rice-Stuffed Tomatoes
Serves 6-8
8 large tomatoes
2 tbsp honey
2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced into wedges
Olive oil
2 onions, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 cups short or medium-grain rice
1 cup finely chopped herbs (like parlsey, mint, or dill)
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Use a sharp knife to slice roughly 1 cm off of the top of each tomato, reserving this slice to use as a lid. Use a spoon to remove the core from each tomato, being careful not to create any holes, and transfer the tomato cores to a blender. Arrange the cored tomatoes and sliced potatoes in a large baking pan with tall sides. Drizzle honey and 2 tbsp of olive oil over and inside the tomatoes, and season everything well with salt and a few cracks of black pepper.
2. Blend the tomato cores until smooth. Set aside.
3. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
4. Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the diced onion, season with salt, and cook until translucent, then add garlic and cook until beginning to brown, 2-3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another minute, then stir in the rice, season again, and cook for 5-6 minutes until toasted. Stir in 1 cup of water and 1 cup of the tomato puree. Cook, stirring frequently, until the rice has absorbed all of the water and is al dente, about 10 minutes.
5. Stir the chopped herbs into rice, check seasoning, adding more salt if necessary, then use a spoon to stuff it into the tomatoes until they are 3/4 full, pressing down gently (the rice will expand as it cooks). Pour another 1 cup of water and the remaining tomato puree in and around the tomatoes, then cover them with their ‘lids’. Drizzle more oil over and around the tomatoes and potatoes, season everything once more with salt, then cover the tray with a lid or aluminum foil before placing it in the oven.
6. Bake tomatoes for about an hour and a half until rice is just cooked, adding more water if it completely evaporates and your rice still has a bite. Remove the lid/foil and bake for another 25 minutes until the tops take on a nice colour. Serve with tzatziki.
Tzatziki
Yield: ~3 cupsÂ
2 cups strained greek yogurt
1/3 cup grated cucumber, salted and drained
1/4 cup dill, finely chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
Add yogurt, cucumber, dill, and garlic to a bowl. Stir to combine, then season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste.
